Don’t forget about pond winter maintenance—your fish will thank you for it.
I’m an avid pond
hobbyist, and I read everything I can get my hands on--
magazines, websites, and pond club newsletters. And even if
I can remember most of what to do, I still like to have a
written reminder—it’s just easier with a simple checklist.
I’ve listed below my idea of “The Ideal Pond Winter
Maintenance Check List”. It’s pretty generic but covers all
the basics.
DEBRIS
If you have trees near your pond you should
have installed a net or been removing fallen leaves during the fall.
But if you haven’t and too much organic
matter (more than 1/2” of muck--dead leaves/plants and fish droppings) are
sitting at the bottom of your pond, rotting and releasing nutrients into the
water, now is the time to head off a low or no oxygen problem. Either clean it
out or purchase a bacterial product that works in water temperatures under
55°F--a product that contains natural, nontoxic and nonpathogenic psychrophilic
bacteria - cold weather bacteria. It will help to decompose the leaves, scum,
sediment, and other organic matter during fall and winter.
If you don’t remove the organic matter the
algae are going to feed on those nutrients come spring and get a good head
start.
WATER
What should you do with your water during
winter? Absolutely nothing if possible. However, if your pond is on the small
side, you may want to continue to do 25% water changes to help keep the pond
clean and healthy. If you live in an area that freezes regularly, arrange your
system in such a way that some of the surface stays liquid and your equipment
can run regularly/daily without the risk of freezing; for instance, place a de-icer
or bubblers in your pond. Whatever method you use, remember to always keep an
opening in the ice so that the gases can escape. Do not break holes in the ice,
since this will send shock waves that can injure or kill the fish. Gently melt
the ice.
And even during the winter keep an eye on
the pH. The ideal pH for pond water is between 7 and 8.
FISH
In most parts of the United States it‘s best
to leave your fish in the pond during the winter, providing the depth of the
pond is adequate. (If ice forms on the top but the water underneath isn’t
frozen.)
As the temperatures begin to fall, continue
feeding your fish in small amounts to build up their strength for their winter
slow-down. Feed them food that is higher in carbohydrates and lower in protein.
Carbohydrates will fatten your fish up for the long winter. Your fish do not
hibernate during the winter. Their metabolism slows down as the water cools
down. If you fatten them up before you quit feeding them they will have enough
to live on through the cold winter months.
Stop feeding them altogether when the water
temperature drops to 55 degrees. Once the temperature drops below 55 degrees
they can't digest food and, if they eat, the food will decay inside them,
leading to an internal bacterial infection called Sepsis. The rule for dealing
with fish especially during the winter is the less disturbed the better.
PLANTS
Plants should be trimmed and kept to a
minimum during the winter season so their foliage won't rot in the water,
releasing methane and building up sludge. Cut off all yellowing foliage and
spent flowers. Stop feeding the plants. They’re busy storing energy in their
roots and preparing for their winter rest.
Hardy Lilies: can be left in the pond as
long as their roots and tubers are not allowed to freeze. In cold climates
hardy lilies can be dropped to the bottom of the pond, so they are below the
freezing level.
Tropical Lilies: In colder climates remove
them and store in moist sand over winter.
Bog Plants: If freezing goes down to their
roots; remove bog plants and also store them in sand in your basement, garage or
protected patio.
Go to Article Archive
|
